The Coastal Way
Stage 12: Vil.lamouros - Outur
Stage of 20.39 kilometers that runs entirely through the council of Valdés, between the small towns of Vil.lamouros and Outur. There are no major slopes on the route, the most notable incidents being the descents to the bottom of the valleys of the Esva and Negro rivers and the subsequent ascents, with some steep slopes, very punctual. In some areas, the Way has recently been greatly transformed as a result of the construction of the Cantabrian Highway, with some of these points of ascent and steep descents coinciding with the passage through the replacement tracks of the Jacobean route through these modified areas. .
In general terms, the Camino has an asphalt surface for more than half of its route, although the percentage of dirt or gravel paths is also important.
Numerous population centers, small towns and villages are crossed, such as San Cristóbal, Querúas, Canero, Barcia or Taborcías, in addition to the points of origin and destination, all of them characterized by presenting numerous examples of traditional architecture typical of this western Asturian area. with slate roofs, houses of block house typology, closed and of great proportions, appearing next to the granaries and breadbaskets another peculiar type of barn, the cabazo or hórreo in the Galician way, which from now on will accompany the pilgrim practically until the gates of Santiago de Compostela.
The Way crosses the town of L.luarca, capital of the Valdés council, which has a privileged location at the mouth of the Negro River, in an area of the coast of great beauty. The route runs through the old part of the town, next to some of the town’s main monuments, such as the palace of the Marquis of Ferrera, declared an Asset of Cultural Interest. Sometime after leaving L.luarca, the route will pass by the ruins of the Romanesque church of Santiago, in Taborcias, in a place of special beauty, a meadow next to a small river.
Documentary references to the passage of pilgrims through this stage are abundant. There are hospitals in Cadavedo (near the beginning of the stage), in Casiellas (in the parish of Canero), possibly also in Barcia (where one of its neighborhoods is called El Hospital), and in L.luarca (mentioned village, in addition , in various accounts of pilgrims of modern times). In Outur, the end point of this route, there was a priory of Benedictine monks in which it is also recorded that some pilgrims spent the night to Santiago.
The stage begins in Vil.lamouros, on the national 634, next to the link of this road with the road that comes from San Pelayo de Tehona, in the area known as Los Umeirales.
Continue for a few meters along the shoulder of the national highway. Before reaching a modern house, topped by a tower, cross the road and continue to the right, along a concrete track that runs in front of the tower house and that in a few meters becomes a track of gravel that begins a descending route between eucalyptus trees and meadows, keeping, at first, the national road on the left, at an upper level, passing after a curve to gradually leave this road behind and continuing the route between meadows.
You go up to a small stop where a modern house is located, to the right of the Camino. It joins here, going straight on at a first crossroads (which leads to the center of El Carbayu), with a concrete track. Continue along this road for a little less than 180 meters, leaving an isolated bread basket on the right hand side in a meadow and accessing Quintana, in the parish of Canero.
- Related item: Quintana
You come to another crossroads, in the place of Cueto, continuing straight ahead, to pass after a few meters and having passed a house on the right, to circulate along a dirt and stone track. Continue straight on this track, between meadows. Pass the building of a cultural center on the right and a granary on the left, and come to another crossroads, where you continue straight ahead, at the place of La Cruz (if you continue to the right at the crossroads, you get to the Chapel of Our Lady of Hope in about 400 meters).
The Jacobean route continues straight ahead, between meadows on the right and left, delimited by wooden stakes that flank the Way for a few meters, until after a curve there appears on the left, at a higher level, a set of agricultural warehouses. You go up the track and reach the place of San Cristóbal, made up of a few single-family houses and some agricultural warehouse.
- Related item: San Cristóbal o San Cristuébanu
Continue straight ahead and after crossing the town on an asphalt road, you return to a dirt and stone track, which leaves this town behind, passing through meadows and gorse bushes, the path being delimited on the left by a slope contained by a stone wall. Thus begins a descent towards a wooded area, where the route (here called Camino de La Venta) becomes, at some point, boxed in. When you start the ascent again, you come to a fork in the tracks, continuing the path on the left, and shortly after, at another crossroads, continue along the track on the right, progressively entering a eucalyptus plantation, with the path running along a dirt track between slopes. The route goes flat between trees , and ascends until it meets an asphalt road. The route from San Cristóbal to this point has had an approximate length of a kilometer and a half.
The road that is accessed is a road linked to the national highway 632 that serves the small town of La Venta, with houses that are located at the foot of the road. Therefore, we continue to the right, passing in front of this strip of houses (between which a granary is erected). After leaving the last construction behind, it joins the national highway, turning right and passing along the shoulder of this road, which leads to the town of Querúas, which is crossed following the route of the national highway, for a little less than 700 meters, leaving the various buildings, houses and granaries that make up this nucleus to the right and left. You pass by an open space, on the right, called Campo de Pascua, where the Santa Ana chapel is located, just 70 meters from the road.
- Related item: Querúas
After passing the center of Querúas, you arrive, along the shoulder of the road, at an area of roundabouts connecting this road with the Cantabrian highway. The first roundabout is reached by the national road, having to go around it along the shoulder of the road until it circulates under the highway, by an underpass, after which it connects with another roundabout. You cross the road as soon as you pass the pass under the highway and skirt the roundabout, leaving a first detour on your right and taking the second, along a gravel track that soon becomes concreted, which is followed for just over 100 meters towards El Chanu, until you reach a crossroads where there is a vertical and tall telephone support building.
- Related item: El Chanu
At this point, continue along the concrete track on the left, between houses and meadows. After just 180 meters, this road connects with a local road, rising to the right a four-storey residential building and opposite, on the other side of the road, a strip of two houses, one with an elongated floor on one level and the other with two plants. You cross the road at this point and continue along a narrow track, partly made up of concrete steps, which leads in a steep descent to a concrete track that you cross, connecting with a dirt road that descends to the place of Ventorrillo , passing through the middle of a flat space on whose sides two houses rise.
- Related item: Vivienda en Ventorrillo
After leaving these houses behind, you continue along a track that after 140 meters of ascent, crosses the national highway 632 and continues straight ahead along a concrete track that, between trees, leads to the church of San Miguel de Canero.
- Related item: Iglesia de san Miguel
The path leaves behind the church and cemetery of Canero, leaving on the right the ruins of the old parsonage, a work from the 17th-18th centuries. It enters a dirt and stone track that runs through Mount Las Arribas, between ash trees and laurels, and after 600 meters it ends at the 632a national highway. Continue to the right along its shoulder for just over a hundred meters, until you reach a communications junction made up of two roundabouts. Before reaching the first roundabout, you go from the 632 national road to the 634 national road, and then along the shoulder of this road, skirt the roundabouts and head towards the Caneiru bridge over the Esva river, which you cross. Before the bridge, on the right hand side, is the interesting Casa de la Barca, whose origins date back to the 18th century and which owes its name to the fact that there was a boat service to cross the river Esva.
- Related item: Casa del Barco
After crossing the river by the bridge, continue along the shoulder of the national road 634, to the right, more or less parallel to the river Esva, which is on the right, and between stopped and masses of trees . In the background you can see a large highway viaduct.
After approximately 600 meters, you come to the building of a hotel establishment around a curve, just before which you take a detour to the right, along a paved track that descends a steep slope towards the Forcón river and which soon after connects with a dirt track, along which you continue, between trees, and soon leaving a detour to the left. We ascend a narrow path, which at a second crossroads continues to the right, ascending, between eucalyptus trees in this case, with sections in which the mother rock outcrops along the way, configuring authentic natural cobblestones. This dirt road ends up converging, after a journey of just over 350 meters, on the N-634 road. You cross this road and continue straight ahead, along a narrow dirt path that ascends, in a steep climb, between a lush vegetation of ¿? and ferns, and that after about 300 meters converges on a paved road parallel to the Cantabrian highway.
Take this road and continue to the left for about 900 meters, first on the same side of the highway, with eucalyptus trees on the left, and then between a patch of pines and heather, somewhat further from the highway. After a curve, you end up crossing a footbridge over the highway, in which there are sidewalks separated by guardrails, on both sides of the road.
After crossing the highway, continue along the shoulder of the paved road to the left, for just 100 meters, until taking the first detour that appears on the left, a dirt and stone track that, in a perfect straight line drawn between extensive and flat meadows, leads into a wooded mass. On the right side of this track, the ruins of an old inn are left, today totally masked by the vegetation.
Two hundred meters further on, the track gives way to a small dirt path, which descends towards a mass of trees, and after two sharp curves it ends at the 634 national road. concrete track that circulates between eucalyptus plantations, leaving a water tank on the right, and driving after just 320 meters back to the national road, along whose shoulder, to the right, you continue for about 100 meters, in an area curving, then moving on a dirt track that opens to the right and runs through sebes, bushes and trees? for 250 meters, converging at the end with the national road, along whose shoulder we continue to the right, in the vicinity of the Muslim cemetery of Barcia, which is on the left.
- Related item: Cementerio musulmán de Barcia
Continue along the national highway for less than three hundred meters, leaving the turnoff to the cemetery on the left. Take the first detour to the right, in the La Rampla area, continuing along an asphalt road that runs perpendicular to the national road, which is left behind. In the background, you can see the coast of this part of the council of Valdés.
After 40 meters, follow the first detour that appears on the left, along a dirt track flanked on the right by plant closings of plots, some of them based on tall cypress trees while a large meadow stretches to the right. At some point along this route, the Way circulates through the meadows, always in a straight direction, until it reaches a plot delimited by a high tuya hedge. This plot is flanked, turning the route to the right and then again to the left, and arriving at an asphalt road just in front of the entrance to the plot and the existing house inside.
After becoming a paved road, the route continues for 150 meters, between meadows, corn plantations and some houses, until reaching a first crossroads, with a granary on the right, where you must continue straight ahead, between houses traditional granaries and meadows, already in the center of Barcia, whose different neighborhoods will be crossed.
- Related item: Barcia
You come to a new crossroads, in an open space delimited in part by the Barcia school building, in the Las Güelgas neighborhood. In front of them there is a wide asphalt esplanade, delimited by a row of trees
- Related item: Escuelas de Barcia
At this point there is a road bifurcation, with a vegetable island between the two roads that converge in the open space. The Camino continues along the one on the left, between houses and their closing walls, made of concrete blocks, which later give way to an area in which the road runs between slopes of earth on both sides, leaving a detour, in the neighborhood of La Fragua. A little further on, you come to the Pulgo fountain and the El Pontigón neighborhood, with a covered laundry from 1882, restored in 2000, and flanking the Camino, which passes over the Pontigón stream.
- Related item: Lavadero
Continue straight on, between houses with bread baskets surrounded by aprons and raised on warehouses or auxiliary buildings, reaching the center of the town of Barcia, in the Cruceiro neighborhood, where there are many testimonies of traditional Asturian architecture, with corridor houses.
After passing the wash house, go straight on until the next crossroads, where you must turn right, towards the parish church, which is located behind an open space.
- Related item: Iglesia de San Sebastián de Barcia
You pass by the church and continue straight on, leaving the temple behind, as well as numerous detours on both sides, which lead to different streets of the town, in some of which there are new laundries, as well as numerous houses and granaries and bread baskets. , in what constitutes a nucleus of great ethnographic interest.
Going straight on, when you come to a curve, you continue straight ahead, next to a bread basket, along a narrow path with the firm surface made up of slate slabs, and which leads between stone walls and some construction to an open space, with orchards in front and a small well to the right, which is descended by some stone steps. At this point, you turn left and you end up on a paved road, which you continue to the left, once again crossing the buildings in the town of Barcia. Continue straight ahead, without taking any of the detours that appear to the right and left, arriving at the Hospital area, and then at a junction with another local road, which you take, deviating the route to the right, circulating between the last town houses, among which one of a clearly rationalist style stands out, on the right-hand side.
Continue along this road until you leave the last houses in Barcia behind. You pass over a stream and you come to the neighborhood of La Madalena, leaving a detour on your right that you do not take, on a curve.
You go up to the houses of La Madalena, after which a sharp curve to the right gives way to a steep descent, leaving trees on both sides. We continue straight on, without taking a first detour to the right, appearing a little further on, also to the right, a water tank, reaching an ascent through the so-called Mingón slope, to an area where there are large warehouses and then houses with some granary and bread basket. After the warehouses, go straight on at a crossroads, and you will come to another crossroads, with two semi-detached houses, with three floors, on the right, already in the place of Barcellina, in the Villar neighborhood.
- Related item: Barcellina
Continue straight on, along the shoulder of the local road VA1, which soon gives way to an area with sidewalks, between single-family homes, some of them large and with an Indian development. After a meadow on the left, in which a bread basket stands alone, you come to a crossroads, where you must continue straight ahead, between high stone walls, closing the plot, on both sides of the Camino.
Afterwards, you pass in front of several Indian houses, some of them in ruins, and you go back along a sidewalk, which now leads to the town of L.luarca, whose hospital is left on the right-hand side. It is a center grown around a nucleus formed by a construction from the beginning of the 20th century, on a plot delimited by a stone wall.
- Related item: Hospital-Asilo
On the left are the first blocks of houses, some of them belonging to houses of official promotion
Continue straight ahead and after leaving the José García Fernández school building on the right, promoted by this local benefactor in 1911, turn left onto Carri Street, leaving the road that leads to the cemetery and the L.luarca lighthouse straight ahead. .
On the way down to the center of L.luarca along Calle Carril and its continuation Puerta de la Villa you can see spectacular views, on the right, of the port of this town. It circulates between two and three-storey houses of a marine type, with wooden and cast iron balconies.
At the end of this street, turn to the right, along Calle Olavarrieta (formerly Calle Zapatería) in the direction of the palace of the Marquises of Ferrera, today the house of culture and the National Police station.
- Related item: Capilla del palacio de los marqueses de Ferrera
- Related item: Palacio de los marqueses de Ferrera
You descend this street, passing under the Bayón arch, which communicated several rooms of the palace, next to its chapel and with views at the bottom of the San Roque chapel, which dominates the town from the other bank of the Negro river. After passing the palace, you continue through an area of steps, until you join the street ¿?, Then turning left, and descending some steps that lead to the Plaza de los Huevos or the Old Bridge and the river walk. It is crossed by the iron bridge, from which good views of the Valdés town hall building are obtained on the right.
After crossing the bridge, you will reach the old L.luarca transept, continuing along Calle Crucero until you reach Calle Uría and Plaza de los Pachorros, in the area of the expansion of the town from the early twentieth century, where several buildings of interest are preserved. remarkable of that time.
From the Plaza de los Pachorros you can access, to the right, the Plaza de Alfonso X el Sabio, presided over by the City Hall building and where the palace of the Marquis of Gamoneda is also located.
The Camino continues straight ahead, along La Peña street, which in a steep ascent and after several sharp curves, between traditional houses and good views of the town, reaches a small square, from which it is possible to take, on the right, a detour that leads to the chapel of San Roque.
At this point, the Camino de Santiago continues to the left, along the so-called Camino Real, along the shoulder of a local road, between single-family houses and closing stone walls. You do not take any detour to the right of those that follow one another, and you arrive at the La Curripia neighborhood, with views to the right of the great house of San Justo, in L’Outeiru.
In this area, at the end of the straight that has been followed from the L.luarca exit, you come to a fork in the road, taking the one that continues to the right. After approximately one hundred meters, you will come to another crossroads, with the rectangular building of the old schools on the left and the house with the chapel described above on the right.
Take the detour to the left, passing in front of the schools, which currently house a Meeting House, and continue along an asphalt road that descends, flanked on the right by a high stone wall that stands on a bedrock slope carved into the shape of a vertical wall. After a short walk along this road, you will reach the ruins of the old church of Santiago, from medieval times.
- Related item: Antigua iglesia de Santiago
After the church, the La Olla stream is crossed by a stone bridge, with a single span, continuing along the local road, sandwiched between earth slopes, and with meadows on both sides. We continue straight on, arriving after a crossroads in an area of cattle sheds, already in the parish of Taborcias.
- Related item: Taborcías
You pass next to the warehouses, which are on the left hand side of the road, and several houses on the right, among which the first cabazo found on the itinerary of the coastal Camino de Santiago de Asturias is located.
Go straight on, between meadows, some large house and modern houses, going up to a bridge that allows you to cross the Gijón/Xixón-Ferrol railroad tracks, after which you continue straight, between more meadows and isolated houses, passing by the San Isidro fountain in La Calella.
- Related item: Fuente de San Isidro
Further on, modern houses, some old ones (some with wooden galleries), as well as granaries, bread baskets and huts, continue to follow one another, isolated. On the left it is possible to contemplate, behind the meadows, the high tower of the modern church of Santiago. Afterwards, you pass by the center of Taborcias, on the left, with numerous examples of traditional architecture, after which, always in a straight line, you will come to a large house located in front of the route, on the right of which you ascend to the national highway 634 , in the nucleus of Vil.luír.
- Related item: Vil.luír
Cross the road, and continue towards Constancios, along a local paved road, between single-family houses from the end of the 20th century, mostly in the nucleus of Aquelcabo. After just over 300 meters you will come to a crossroads, with the school building on the left.
- Related item: Escuelas
Continue straight ahead, until you reach another intersection preceded by some houses. At that junction, take the detour to the right, which runs between meadows, until you reach another junction, where you continue straight ahead, leaving a detour to the right. It continues like this, between meadows, through the Las Pontigas area, for another 280 meters, until arriving, after a new crossroads where it continues straight on, to a house with a granary (old sale) after which the asphalt road it gives way to a dirt and stone track, which continues in a slight ascent, not far from the highway, which, in parallel, develops to the left. You pass by a plot set up as a car racing circuit, and shortly after you join an asphalt road. Continue straight, without taking any detour, until you reach a crossroads less than 300 meters later, where you must choose the path that continues to the left, while the one to the right leads to a group of houses.
The route continues along this local road, always straight and without taking detours, and the Outur church building, located at the foot of the national road, can soon be seen on the right. You pass under isolated houses, and at the foot of a bread basket located on a lower body of two stories high, built in stone masonry, crossing a stream shortly after, in the Carral neighborhood, after which you ascend to the known area like The Palace. Further on, you come to the neighborhood of La Casona, crossing another stream and leaving a set of houses, bread boxes and various agricultural facilities on the right hand side.
Continue straight on, until a new crossroads that, to the right, leads to the N-634 national road and the Outur church, to reach which it is necessary to deviate from the Camino (which continues straight at this point) for approximately half a kilometer.
At this point, in the upper area of Outur, the present stage concludes.
- Related item: Outur