The Original Way
Stage 3: Salas - Tinéu
This stage, which runs between the capitals of the councils of Salas and Tinéu, has a total length of 19.73 kilometers, with their distribution being very balanced in terms of the typology of the pavement, since 6.5 kilometers are made along shoulders of asphalt roads while 5.88 km circulate on dirt tracks and 6.76, on gravel tracks.
It circulates in a progressive ascent, more pronounced at the beginning of the stage, between the town of Salas and the town of Porciles, passing from this point to present a very stable profile, with few incidents, until the end of the route.
The two large urban centers along the route, the towns of Salas and Tinéu, in both cases have interesting testimonies of cultural heritage, manifested in numerous large houses, urban palaces, churches and chapels, which mark the historical complexes of the two towns. These are localities with a deep Jacobean tradition, as is the case with many of the small towns and villages through which the Camino de Santiago runs at this stage, such as Porciles, Bodenaya, La Espina or El Pedregal. The passage from the council of Salas to that of Tinéu marks the beginning of the transition towards a traditional architecture with a strong personality, evident in the roof of the buildings, which progressively replaces the tile with the slate slab.
The Jacobean history is very rich in this territory. Already in the town of Salas there is evidence of the existence in modern times of a pilgrim hospital, dedicated to San Roque, of which its chapel is still preserved. The existence of two pilgrim aid establishments in La Espina is also known, one of which would trace its origins back to no less than the year 883, which makes it one of the oldest hostels in the entire Jacobean world. Already in the council of Tinéu, the existence, in medieval times, of a hospital in the first town of the municipality that the Camino crosses, La Pereda, is also documented. Likewise, there was a Hospital House in El Pedregal. Finally, the town of Tinéu had a strategic importance within the route of the Asturian Primitive Way, so much so that King Alfonso IX came to order around 1222 that the pilgrims had to pass through this population, capital in the Middle Ages of a wide demarcation territorial that included a good part of the Asturian west, the so-called Asturias de Tinéu. In this town there was a pilgrim hospital, dedicated to Our Lady of Mater Christi, already documented in the 13th century and which remained standing until the 19th century.
This stage begins in the central square of Salas, flanked by the collegiate church, the town hall and the tower and palace of Valdés-Salas.
The route passes under the arch that connects the tower with the palace, continuing straight on La Campa street, between houses of one and two floors. When you reach a fork in the streets, continue along the one on the right, which descends. It is Calle Ondinas, which runs between one-story houses, among which some granary stands. Continue straight ahead, leaving a detour on your right that leads to a wash house, on the other side of the Nonaya river.
Continue straight on, through an increasingly rural environment, with single-family homes, granaries and bread baskets, passing later the path to circulate along a gravel track first and then dirt and stone, which goes into a forest of eucalyptus and native species such as elderberry. Advance parallel to the river, to the right, soon finding the source of Paín on the left.
- Related item: Fuente de Paín
The ascent is maintained along this path, between meadows and trees. At a fork in the road that appears shortly after the source, continue along the one on the right, parallel to the river, shortly reaching an esplanade where remains of an old mining operation are preserved: a metal hopper attached to a high concrete wall, retaining the slope, in which there are other remains of constructions linked to the kaolin mine that existed here. To the left, at the top, it is possible to see a highway viaduct.
The climb continues, between trees ?? and areas where the path is delimited by stone walls, with the river always on the right. After about 950 meters, you reach the Borra bridge, built in stone, from a span.
- Related item: Puente de Borra
Cross the bridge and continue along the path, and after another 800 meters, approximately, you will reach the Carcabón bridge, an imposing construction based on stone blocks, which spans a deep gorge formed by the river ¿?. Before the bridge, there is a detour to the right that leads to the waterfalls of the Nonaya River, a natural setting of great beauty located just 250 meters from the Jacobean route.
- Related item: Puente del Carcabón
Cross the Carcabón bridge and continue along a path that deviates to the left and that, in a steep ascent, and after passing through two hairpin bends, leads, 300 meters after the bridge, to connect with the national road N-634 , in the place of El Llanón, continuing along its shoulder for just over 800 meters. You first pass by some ruins of a building, then follow a very sharp curve, before and after which you drive under the highway viaducts. Next, we pass a strip of houses from 1906 on the right, with a granary, known as Casa Servando, taking immediately after, before a bend in the national road, a detour to the left, along a dirt and stone track. .
You ascend this track, between bushes and trees, continuing to the right at a first fork in the road. Further on, you pass a path on your right that descends, continuing along the narrow dirt path you were coming through, in a steep ascent, and that after two steep curves connects with a wider gravel path that runs more or less less in parallel with the carriageway of the highway, on the left. You pass a flyover on the left over that highway, continuing straight ahead along a now concrete track. After two hundred meters, turn right, along a concrete path perpendicular to the highway, which is now behind the Camino.
It circulates between meadows, stone walls that close the plots and some trees, leaving a first detour to Porciles on the left that is not taken. After half a kilometer along this road, you come to a curve where you take a detour to the left, to connect with a dirt and stone track that ascends to connect, just 60 meters later, with another local road, continuing towards the right, towards the small neighborhood of Porciles, with several houses and a granary.
- Related item: Porciles
The route now continues between dry stone walls delimiting plots, reaching after two hundred meters at a road junction where you have to continue straight ahead, after advancing at the junction a few meters to the left. Pass a small green space on the left hand side in which a corten steel canopy is located, and continue straight ahead between stone walls, to then move parallel to the highway, which is on the left, along a wide gravel track that later will circulate in parallel with the national highway, to the right, until it reaches an underpass of the same, which is crossed and that leads to the town of Bodenaya, by the formerly known as Camín de Misa.
After the underpass, continue to the left, leaving behind some warehouses, and circulating along a gravel track that after about 120 meters reaches the Bodenaya cemetery, on the right, after which it is located, in a meadow to the right of the path, a stone transept from the 19th century, raised on a stone podium.
- Related item: Crucero de Bodenaya
After the transept, continue straight ahead, towards the church, leaving several large naves to the left and the detour towards them. You ascend, passing a stream, flanking the church of Santa Marina.
- Related item: Iglesia de Santa Marina
After passing the church, continue to the right, along a narrow path of stone walls, which enters the small town of Bodenaya, between granaries, breadbaskets and some houses.
- Related item: Bodenaya
This road ends up on the national road N-634. You cross this road and continue straight ahead, along a local asphalt road that ascends and when you reach the first curve, you turn left, in front of a two-storey high house. At this point you take a gravel track that flanks a series of single-family houses lined up around the national road on the left, while the meadows follow one another on the right. Continue along this track, parallel to the national highway, passing through an area in which there is a high concrete wall on the right side of the road, past which a large bread basket is located, also on the right side.
Leaving this bread basket behind, the track joins a paved road, continuing to the left, already among the first houses of the town of La Espina, to which the route leads and closely linked to the Camino de Santiago for centuries, having documented the existence here from a pilgrims’ hospital as early as 883.
- Related item: La Espina
You pass between meadows, houses, granaries and bread baskets, soon leaving a detour to the left towards the national highway. Just after passing this detour, the La Espina school building is located on the right, with a typical 1930s typology.
- Related item: Escuelas
After passing the schools, continue in front, in an area where there are already sidewalks next to the road, arriving 220 meters later, approximately, to an open space in which the church of San Vicente stands, with a playground in front of its main facade.
- Related item: Iglesia de San Vicente
At this point you turn left, passing the path in front of the chapel doorway and descending towards the main road, then continuing to the right, and immediately arriving at a road junction where you must continue on the left. , along a street of modern blocks of flats among which some previous two-story construction persists. Continue straight ahead at the next intersection that appears, without taking the detours that appear to the left and right, until you come to a roundabout, at the exit of La Espina. Before reaching this roundabout, take a gravel track that surrounds it on the right (in the direction of the Camino), to turn right before passing the roundabout, connecting with a dirt track that runs between bushes and trees, moving away from the national highway and entering the council of Tinéu.
This track leads uphill to the first town in Tinéu where the Camino Primitivo arrives, La Pereda.
- Related item: La Pereda
After a little less than half a kilometer of travel along this track, you will reach some naves, a place where you pass through a concrete road, arriving very soon at the chapel of Cristo de los Afligidos, on the right side of the route. .
- Related item: Capilla del Cristo de los Afligidos
You turn to the right, just after passing the hermitage, flanking it on its side and starting a sharp ascent that leads to the upper part of La Pereda, the so-called Reconco neighborhood, without taking any of the detours that appear to the right and left. passing by a construction with a semicircular floor plan and arriving, in a curve, to connect with an asphalt road, in front of a house with an elongated floor plan. Here you turn left, running along the path between houses, livestock buildings, all with general views of the town nucleus that, further down, develops to the left of the route, which also allows you to contemplate excellent panoramic views of the mountain landscape of Bodenaya. You come to a large livestock shed in front of which is located, on the right bank of the Jacobean route, the Reconco fountain, built in 1809, and located under a covered structure.
- Related item: Fuente de Reconco
The Way advances between cattle sheds, reaching a crossroads where you continue straight ahead, for a little further on, at another fork in the tracks, follow the one on the left, along a dirt track that runs between meadows, flanked by the left by wooden stakes for the delimitation of parcels, and to the right by a slope of land. After about 250 meters, in a curve, it turns right, ascending a dirt track encased between stone walls on the left and the earth slope on the right, immediately reaching a fork in the road where follow the one on the right, along a dirt track. Shortly after, at another fork, you continue to choose the path on the right, ascending between trees, sebes that close parcels and gorse scrub, with excellent views to the left of the valleys of ¿? With the mountains in the background.
This narrow track leads, after just over a kilometer to the village of Bedures, the first thing you will find is a bread basket on the left.
- Related item: Bedures
The road becomes concreted and continues straight, running between houses and next to a laundry attached to the wall, after which it passes through an area of meadows and later returns to reach another neighborhood of the population, in which there is another laundry room, covered in this case. After this second washhouse there is a crossroads where you must continue straight on, between more houses and some granaries, past which you continue between meadows, with a mill on the right, on top, as well as a small watercourse. that saves the steep slope between the mill and the road.
Continue through trees and meadows, reaching a curve with a fork in the road, taking the one on the right and, just after, turning left towards a gravel track, already located above the town of LaMillariega, above which You pass, parallel to the main road, with the group of houses and livestock buildings developing on the left, behind some meadows, while on the right you will see the meadows, with several wind power mills at the top of the cordal.
After less than 300 meters circulating along this track, you pass by the first houses of the town of El Pedregal, passing the road to be paved and leaving a small fountain and a small stone chapel of souls, of recent construction, on the right. and with an image of Santiago inside, behind glass.
- Related item: El Pedregal
This path leads to the La Güérgola neighborhood of El Pedregal, passing by several traditional houses and reaching a narrow alley where you turn left, connecting with the national highway, and then turn right.
- Related item: Casa Fausto, casa tradicional
Continue along the shoulder of the road for about 150 meters, until you reach a junction with the road that goes to Villanueva and Ordial, continuing straight ahead, to arrive after another 80 meters, at the church of San Justo y Pastor, in a bend in the national highway.
- Related item: Iglesia de san Justo y Pastor
After the church, continue along the shoulder of the road, flanking two strips of buildings (in the second of which there is a bread basket on a winery). A little less than 200 meters later, you take a detour to the right, along a concrete track perpendicular to the road. Shortly after taking this track, a stone transept is located on the right hand side, built on a small stone cube.
- Related item: Humilladero
The Camino advances along the path until, a little more than 100 meters later, it connects with a perpendicular path, having to continue to the left. After another 130 meters, you come to a fork in the road, continuing the route on the left, a dirt road flanked by trees and in some sections by high slopes of earth (sometimes reinforced by stone blocks), which enclose the path that runs through the Sierra de Tinéu.
After a little more than a kilometer of travel, you will come to a crossroads where you continue straight ahead, between trees and walls that delimit plots, downhill until you reach a small stream that you cross without the need for a footbridge or bridge. Then an ascent begins, soon leaving a detour to the right and circulating between trees and sebes, leaving an isolated building (a brick nave) on the right hand side, after which it descends until it joins a wider track, of land, continuing to the right at this point.
It runs along this track, between meadows, with the path flanked by trees and sebes. You pass a nave on the left, and shortly after a detour to the right. Cross a small stream and at the next crossroads, proceed to the right, between an area of trees, after which it connects with another path and continues to the right, descending between trees that flank the path, meadows on the sides and a wind farm in the upper left. We cross another small stream, continuing the route of this track through a fully natural environment. A detour is left ahead on the right, continuing to another crossroads where you turn to the right, along a path that will lead to the vicinity of the town of Santa Eulalia de Tinéu, which is not accessible. Before reaching the first farmhouse in the town, in which a large bread basket stands out, take a detour to the right, along a track that leaves the town behind and that runs between meadows, flanked by sebes and trees.
Continue along this track for approximately one kilometer, until you reach a detour that, to the left, leads to the town of Zarracín. You must continue straight ahead, along a track that continues through a forest and that, after a little over a kilometer reaches some single-family houses, passing the road to be asphalted. A little further on, it joins a road that borders a football field, surrounded by a concrete wall. At this point we continue to the right, along the shoulder of the road, which leads after just over 250 meters to the hermitage of San Roque and its field, at the entrance to the town of Tinéu.
- Related item: Ermita de San Roque
After the hermitage, continue along the Paseo de los Frailes, along a sidewalk. On the right, above, the municipal bowling alley is located. A little further on, on the left side of the road, a statue of the pilgrim stands, at whose feet there is a large sundial, the Camino advances and a fountain appears later, also on the left.
Advance along the promenade, flanked to the right by a high stone wall on which several residential buildings rise, while to the left you can see the new neighborhoods of modern Tinéu, the result of the expansion of the population from the old town. old to which the route is directed.
The route enters the town along the San Roque road, between houses of one and two heights, some of them with corridors and wooden galleries, and also next to some granary and bread basket that still stand in the urban center, in the neighborhood of Picu la Villa.
You pass several detours on your right, you pass by a contemporary fountain, and you come to Calle de Sánchez Campumanes, flanking the church of San Francisco and a modern transept attached to it, in the access area to the Museum of Art Sacred located in several rooms of the temple itself. You finally arrive at the square in front of the church, presided over by a stone transept, and by the facade of the church and the adjoining building of the old monastery, today the judicial headquarters. In this square the present stage of the Camino Primitivo ends.